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Mountains and Water on 05/22/12
I have been on hiatus from writing for the past few weeks, though not for lack of things to consider. I plan on catching up in the next two weeks. I want to begin by taking a look at a new climbing film, Western Gold by the talented boulderer Alex Savage . The trailer for this was released earlier in the year and I felt it showed great promise and was very pleased when Alex offered a copy for review. Despite my harried schedule at the end of the semester, I found myself glued to the...
Steph Davis on 05/22/12
Hello Steph and greetings from Croatia! First of I all I would like to say that you are other free solo climbers were an inspiration for me to start climbing (which was 5 months ago). I was watching the First Ascent series Alone on the Wall and I was like… jezz… if these guys ( [...]
Splitter Choss on 05/22/12
There’s a tangible excitement that comes with the arrival of a new season. For climbers, spring often means being able to access crags that you couldn’t get to during the winter. We have a nice local spot around here that features gently overhanging limestone routes in a stunning setting, but you can only get there [...]
American Alpine Institute on 05/22/12
To start with, all of those who found today's blog by typing in the word "single" while looking for a dating site are going to be disappointed. And those of you who found this blog after typing in the word "twins" are going to be doubly disappointed...
Instead, this article will describe the different types of dynamic climbing ropes available to climbers and their uses. As the title indicates there are three types of ropes that are regularly used for rock, ice and alpine climbing....
American Alpine Institute on 05/21/12
It seems simple, but the reality is that many serious falls take place in places that should not be that technical. Many falls take place in spots that could easily be negotiated with good technique.
When I started working at the Institute, I had quite a bit of experience. I intrinsically understood the techniques for walking on snow and on ice, but they weren't well defined in my head. Well defined techniques lead to better techniques.
The primary snow/ice-walking technique that I'm...
Greg and Jeremiah on 05/20/12
Well, not much to write, except that I FINALLY got out climbing yesterday. Made it out to Anhagava with "Lost", "Rookie", and "Thunder" and everyone had a good day. It was the first time "Thunder" had made it to the top of an outdoor climb, and he did it twice, battling the voices in his head from the ground up without ever backing down. "Rookie" led another climb after having not led in several
American Alpine Institute on 05/20/12
5/24 -- Houston, TX -- Mark Synnott, Life on the Vertical : Buy Tickets .
5/25 - 5/28 -- Telluride, CO -- Mountainfilm Film Festival: http://mountainfilm.org
6/3 -- Idyllwild, CA -- Idyllwild Climbers Festivial
American Alpine Institute on 05/19/12
The weather and cragging has been so stellar here in the Northwest lately that its been easy to forget about the cold, snowy way up north. So this week we head to Alaska...
Here's an inspiring clip documenting just what it takes to put up a new alpine route Weekend Warrior style. Get training...
With the Denali season in full swing I thought some of the folks back home might like to see just what our climbers are experiencing on the mountain. This vid does a...
Splitter Choss on 05/18/12
By now most folks are aware that Carbondale’s own Hayden Kennedy established the hardest pitch in Indian Creek this past March, with his ascent of the Carbondale Short Bus. Austin Siadak captured some great footage of Hayden on the send, though he makes it look so casual it’s hard to tell this is the hardest [...]
American Alpine Institute on 05/18/12
In the following clip, a climber demonstrates two things. First, he shows us how to tie a munter hitch on a carabiner clipped to a harness. And second, he shows us how to mule off a munter hitch that is clipped to a locker on a pre-equalized anchor.
The munter-mule is one of the most useful combination's that one can employ in any rock rescue scenario. It provides the basis for load transfers and for a number of other rescue techniques.
In the video, the climber refers to the...
B3Bouldering.com on 05/18/12
As many of you who follow B3 know, I have been sponsored by Organic Climbing for at least 7 years, almost as long as the company has been around. When they began making pads they were a very small company based in Laramie, WY. I thought Josh Helke, the proprietor, was really on to something [...]
B3Bouldering.com on 05/17/12
I finally had a free afternoon and made my way out to a newly developed area in RMNP, Wild Basin. Wild Basin is in the southern part of RMNP and is a beautiful, remote and quiet corner of the Park. It is most well known in the bouldering community for a large erratic halfway along [...]
Climbing Narcissist on 05/16/12
So, listen up Cubicle Pukes!! Put down your work, clear the room, put on some cool tunes, and come with me to the Valley of your dreams, in this, the first of many Reports to follow. Yep, the El Cap Report is back. El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012 from Climbing Narcissist Get the [...] El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012 from Climbing Narcissist
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Steph Davis on 05/15/12
Backcountry.com asked me to go to New York last month to film this interview with Outside TV. It was a short trip, but I also got to meet my publisher from Simon and Schuster for the first time, and walk around and look at some tall buildings…
Steph Davis on 05/15/12
Steph, A while back you answered an e-mail I had sent you about fear and I began to recently contemplate how you know where you limit is? I seem to struggle with knowing when it is safe to tame my fear and when the fear is healthy and I should cater to it. Your segment [...]
American Alpine Institute on 05/15/12
It's a common enough site. A young man pulls on his rock shoes and clips on his chalk bag. The next thing you know he's blasting up the wall without a rope or a harness.
Someone nearby says, "that guy's stupid."
And someone else disagrees.
And then someone yells something at the soloist. "Hey!" the person shouts. "Don't you know that's stupid?"
And so it goes. People argue the value and the dangers of soloing on the ground. Eventually someone irresponsibly tries to get the...
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