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Alternative Training
American Alpine Institute on 02/21/12
As the Alaska Program Coordinator, I get calls from people all the time who are wondering what is the best way they can train for an upcoming expedition.  It may sound cliche, but the best advice I can give is this: The best way to train for climbing, is to go climbing. I know, I know - it is a ridiculous statement.  But it's true.  The challenge is, many of our climbers don't have the kind of access to climbing that we do, and they need to come up with alternative ways...
Busy Times In Hueco
Climbing Narcissist on 02/20/12
High season is in full effect in Hueco Tanks for Jorg Verhoeven, Katha Saurwein, Alex Puccio, Alex Johnson and Dave Graham Busy Times In Hueco from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Another Hard New Boulder In Hueco By Daniel Woods News & Notes: Hueco Tanks Edition Aussies Getting It Done In Hueco Another V13 FA In Hueco For Nalle Hukkataival Hueco Tanks Update: Chris Webb Parsons, Keita Mogaki, Phil Schaal and...
Reinhold Messner at the Winter Outdoor Retailer
American Alpine Institute on 02/20/12
We often get caught up with the "who's hot" right now type of thing in climbing. And sometimes we forget that there are some old bold climbers out there that are not just still kicking, but are actively talking about climbing and climbing politics today. Reinhold Messner was the first person to complete ascents of all 14 8,000 meter peaks. He is a prolific speaker and writer. And he was able to make some time to come out to the winter Outdoor Retailer in Salt Lake City last month.  In...
Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!
American Alpine Institute on 02/18/12
Well, here's something you don't see every day... This next clip is a trailer for a film documenting an attempt on one of the few remaining unclimbed peaks in the 50 highest peaks of the world. These Norwegian ladies know how to get after it! Sacre bleu! These French guys are having an awesome time on some sweet looking ice!
Two Things That Make Flying Better (the airplane kind)
Steph Davis on 02/17/12
Flying is not my favorite. I would much rather drive where I’m going, on my own schedule and not have to worry that I’m going to get left. When I started skydiving, I started using earplugs a lot. When you are riding up in a jump plane, the noise gets to be too much after [...]
How to Sharpen and Maintain Your Ice Screws
American Alpine Institute on 02/17/12
Ice screws are expensive and they get damaged easily.  Petzl has put together this absolutely great video on how to sharpen your screws. Beware though, these techniques take some minor skills with tools... --Jason D. Martin
Grand Canyon Wins New Protections From Uranium Mining
The Cleanest Line on 02/17/12
by Taylor McKinnon The Obama administration rang in the New Year with a gift to wildlands and wildlife: a 20-year ban on new mining on 1 million acres of public lands around Grand Canyon National Park. The move, in the...
Mountain Conditions 2/15/2012
American Alpine Institute on 02/15/12
NORTHWEST: -- Roads, Routes, Trails -- -The North Twin Sister is reported to be in good condition right now by our own Equipment Shop Manager, Jeremy. The North Bowl was stable but rather deep, so better for a ski descent than for climbing. The West Ridge appeared to be in good, yet soft, condition from the base. North Twin Sister. Right skyline is the infamous West Ridge, by Jeremy Wilson 200 feet to the Ridge by Jeremy Wilson...
Cerro Torre For Dummies (& Non-Alpinists)
Splitter Choss on 02/15/12
Like many of my fellow online denizens, I’ve watched with interest as the Cerro Torre drama unfolded over the last couple of weeks. I’m not an alpinist, and I’ll probably never go to climb in Patagonia, as I prefer trips to places where the weather is good for more than three days out of thirty. [...]
Brushing Up On Some History
Climbing Narcissist on 02/15/12
Certain climbing areas have iconic problems that everyone remembers their experience with and at the Buttermilks outside Bishop, CA, The Iron Man Traverse (V4) is one such problem. Brushing Up On Some History from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Buttermilks: Soulslinger Ancient History: Horse Pens 40 Pt. 1 Ancient History: Horse Pens 40 Pt. 2 Ancient History: Narc Climbing On Spring Break 3rd Ascent Of Ambrosia...
Access Fund Announces 2011 Sharp End Awards
Access Fund on 02/15/12
Elbow Pains
Steph Davis on 02/15/12
Hello Steph I recently started climbing and even though I’m in good shape I have severe pain in my arms. Mainly in my lower triceps near my elbows. Have any ideas on how to prevent this or will it go away after I build more strength? It can be seveer at times to the point [...]
Training Tips From Justen Sjong
Climbing Narcissist on 02/14/12
Justen Sjong shares several good training tips with Evening Sends Training Tips From Justen Sjong from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Lifestyle, Training, Performance: A Review Of The 2007 8a.nu Yearbook Tips For Climbing Dates Climbing Photography Tips Tips For Climbing 5.12 John Bachar’s Training Journals Climbing Video: Tommy Caldwell Bouldering In RMNP, Training For El Cap Holiday Tech Tips For...
Red Rock Rendezvous - 2012!
American Alpine Institute on 02/14/12
March 30-April 1st, 2012 The American Alpine Institute will be a primary sponsor of the 9th Annual Red Rock Rendezvous in Red Rock Canyon just outside of Las Vegas.  This will be the seventh time that our guides will be involved, teaching clinics and partying alongside everyone else at the event. This year our guides will be running multi-pitch climbing trips and beginner climbing days on the 30th.  And they will be teaching a variety of programs on the...
The Altruist
B3Bouldering.com on 02/14/12
I know this news is a bit old in our now seemingly daily news cycle but I did want to highlight a recent ascent here in Colorado. A few weeks ago Carlo Traversi made the first ascent of a long-standing project in the Flatirons which he is calling The Altruist V13. The problem is located [...]
Your Help Needed to Address Impact Issues at Bishop
Access Fund on 02/14/12
2/14/2012
Action Alert: 24 Hours to Stop Keystone XL Tar Sands Pipeline
The Cleanest Line on 02/14/12
by Hans Cole Last year, we joined 350.org and concerned citizens across the country in spreading the word that the Keystone XL tar sands pipeline has no place in a national vision for clean energy. On November 6, 2011, citizens...
black swan tiara
Send Austin on 02/13/12
I ended up wearing kind of a ballerina costume to coco and v7′s wedding last month. Merrick got a few amazing shots…   Thank Merrickales!! Filed under: Shopping Tagged: clothes, Merrick, pictures of me