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Climbing Narcissist on 02/04/12
The top posts and videos for January 2012 Popular Posts & Videos For January 2012 from Climbing Narcissist
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Popular Posts & Videos For January 2011
Popular Posts & Videos For May 2011
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Popular Posts & Videos For February 2011
Popular Posts &...
American Alpine Institute on 02/04/12
His leading sponsor may be a bathroom and tile company , but you have to admit that climbing with Ueli Steck is pretty awesome! Here's Jesse Mattner inching his way up the thin ice on the second ascent of Silver Surfer, an M9 in Colorado. I know some of you out there are itching for warmer temps and can't wait to get out of the gym and back on some real rock. Now is the time to start planning your climbing trips for the year - how about some climbing in Squamish? Hopefully the prep...
Steph Davis on 02/04/12
Dear Steph, Thanks for all your great videos and blogs. You keep me inspired. Since I was a young kid in the sixties, it has always been my dream to just be able to hike the Keyhole route up Longs peak. I’ve tried 4 times and failed for one reason or another. Got to the [...]
American Alpine Institute on 02/03/12
At the American Alpine Institute, we spend a lot of time talking about avalanches. We run dozens of avalanche courses a season and highlight avalanche near misses and fatalities on this blog. But we haven't spent much time talking about another major frontcountry and backcountry danger: tree-wells
Every year there are stories about people who have gone into a tree-well upside down and suffocated. Essentially, a skier or a snowboarder takes a fall and slides into a...
The Cleanest Line on 02/02/12
by Steve Graepel Scott scrambles up to Cache Col and drops his pack besides mine. We've been moving just over two hours since the trailhead and have stopped to get our first glimpse at the route before us. Our goal...
Splitter Choss on 02/02/12
It’s hard to believe, but Splitter Choss is going into its seventh year online, and as such, my friend Chris Kalous wanted to record an episode for the Enormocast, to talk about the site, and my motivation for keeping it going over the years. We also discussed the state of online climbing media, why we [...]
Climbing Narcissist on 02/02/12
Last weekend 12-year-old Drew Ruana took his climbing to the next level by repeating Vicious Fish (5.13d) at Smith Rock, OR Vicious Fish (5.13d) Repeated By 12-Year-Old Drew Ruana from Climbing Narcissist
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American Alpine Institute on 02/02/12
Northwest:
--A lost snowboarder was found alive and well Sunday morning, January 29, after
he spent the night in a snow cave on Mount Shuksan. Jakub Cink,
23, of the Czech Republic, was reported missing about 5 p.m. Saturday,
three hours after he was last seen on the slopes of the Mount Baker Ski
Area, said Whatcom County Sheriff's Deputy George Ratayczak. To read more, click here .
--A Washington state man who mistakenly skied well outside the the boundary of Oregon's...
Climbing Narcissist on 02/01/12
Sasha DiGiulian ends her long relations with Mad Rock and signs with Five Ten: I had a fabulous relationship with the people there [Mad Rock], but I came to the decision that in order to pursue my career, I had to find a shoe more compatible for my personal preferences. I found this shoe with [...] DiGiulian Signs With Five Ten from Climbing Narcissist
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American Alpine Institute on 02/01/12
NORTHWEST:
-- Roads, Routes, Trails --
Millennium Wall in Leavenworth is reported to be in fair but not great condition. Here's a video.
Millenium Wall Ice Climbing - Jan 28, 2012 from Rick Samona on Vimeo .
Ice Conditions Thread on Cascade Climbers
Forest Service Road and Trail Conditions Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
Statewide Ski and Snow Report .
Route and Conditions from...
Climbing Narcissist on 01/31/12
It was another productive weekend at Nicky's Boulders near Estes Park for Daniel Woods Another V14 For Daniel Woods Near Estes Park from Climbing Narcissist
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American Alpine Institute on 01/31/12
This weekend, I ran a one-on-one ice climbing instruction course with Zheng Yang, an aspiring alpine climber and one smart cookie (he was in the military as an explosives expert and is now a mathematics major at Columbia).
It was a great weekend for the ice here in the park, and it was great to have some one-on-one time to really hone in on Zheng Yang's ice technique. Here's some photos from the weekend. (Note that they are thumbnails. Click on the pictures for the expanded files). Enjoy!...
Mountains and Water on 01/30/12
I got a lot of reaction to last week's post , reaction which was by no means expected. I felt I was making the simple point that sponsorships in climbing have to be earned and that depending on the effort put in, you may find yourself breaking even at best. A lot of people agreed but unfortunately Ben Moon at Moon Climbing took exception to my account of my experience as a sponsored climber. He wrote in a comment to my blog: " Moon Climbing is not some big faceless corporation. It's a...
Climbing Narcissist on 01/30/12
Free whether you like it or not: We choose to give away our videos for free because the cost of distribution is zero and we want as many people to see it as possible. Free removes the cost barrier for our audience to see our video. And the cost barrier for our audience to share [...] The Louder Than 11 Business Model from Climbing Narcissist
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American Alpine Institute on 01/30/12
Ever wonder how they "control" avalanches in a ski area?
You've probably heard that they blast. But what does blasting mean? In some cases it means literally throwing a bomb into the snow. And in other cases, it means firing a charge at the slope.
This first video shows how the ski patrol in Park City, Utah controlled avalanches earlier this month:
In this second video, the ski patrol at the Las Vegas Ski and Snowboard Resort control avalanches with a World...
Steph Davis on 01/30/12
Hi Steph, given your level of experience and ability I presume you’ve had some injuries in your climbing career. Just wondering if you’ve had any rotator cuff problems and if so, what advice you could give to fixing them (I know patience is probably the best advice but I already know!). I have tendonitis of [...]
Splitter Choss on 01/27/12
I’ve been going to the OR show for many years now, but I’ll never forget the first time I walked into the Salt Palace, completely overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle of all that was going on around me. These days, it just fades into the background, as I hop from appointment to appointment, saying [...]
American Alpine Institute on 01/27/12
One of the most overlooked techniques in avalanche rescue is how one shovels. This is the most time consuming part of any avalanche rescue.
The following video was put together by Backcountry Access, a company that develops avalanche beacons, shovels, probes and backpacks.
Following is a review of the key points from the video:
Technique for Rescue with One Person
Start downhill of the probe strike.
Make the hole approximately a wingspan wide.
Begin shoveling...
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